I skipped the duck fat because to render duck fat takes a few hours.” “My sister does a pretty good dressing with duck fat,” Ford says. This purification process transforms pork fat into lard or chicken fat into schmaltz. De-casing the link helps to melt the fat, which in turn permeates the entire dish with a gorgeous aroma.įor cooks with patience, there is the added option of rendering the fat, which involves cooking animal fat slowly until all its internal moisture has evaporated. Although Ford’s recipe does not incorporate any seafood or actual turkey like Ball’s family dressing, it does feature sausage. Render the fatĪ good dressing demands layers of umami. “I’m lost for words,” Ford admits, “because I’ve never heard of a dressing that intricate … sleeping on the culinary minds that are in the houses on the blocks around here.” The cooking is celebratory, reserved for special people at special times, and accessible only in homes by invitation only.
Even a New Orleans native like Ford is surprised by its complexity.īryan Ford tastes his take on Tank’s dressing. In some quarters, these closely guarded secrets are passed down only to the worthiest of the next generation. Learning the details of Ball’s family recipe feels like a rare privilege. “That’s why it’s only cooked for Thanksgiving.” City secrets “ had to have other meals cooking to add to this to make it what it’s supposed to be,” Ball reveals. The gizzards are boiled the shrimp heads must be sautéed then simmered each crab ball is individually formed. But what stands out is the sheer amount of labor involved. The union of land and sea produces a flavor profile that is all too familiar in Creole cooking. Next come the heavy hitters to punch up the cornbread: gizzards, shrimp, shrimp heads, ground meat, and crab balls. To start, she makes a turkey broth scented with crawfish heads, bay leaf, garlic, sage, celery, bell pepper, and green onions. “I saw her cooking this year, and it was so much,” Ball shares. But as he freestyles his way through the other ingredients, from green onion sausage to chicken broth, his list comes up far shorter than that of Ball’s mother. It is then left to dry out overnight, a needed step to give it enough body to absorb the liquid that will subsequently be introduced.
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The guess is unsurprisingly correct because Southern tables tend to favor cornbread over regular bread for the iconic dish.įord bakes the cornbread from scratch, using a combination of cornmeal and flour moistened by butter plus buttermilk.
“I’m assuming it was cornbread based,” Ford muses, a hunch deduced from their shared upbringing in the Big Easy. On the latest installment of The Flaky Biscuit, she has requested that host and artisan baker Bryan Ford re-create her mother’s dressing but unwittingly ups the ante by providing little inkling as to what that entails. Meet ‘The Flaky Biscuit’ Podcast Host Bryan Fordīall reveals that raisins do not have a place in her kitchen, let alone in one of her most cherished meals.
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